Back To Basics Building a Kit 

submitted by Dan Cope "Danno" is important, what I am about to explain is nothing more than
1 way of going about things. There are several ways to go about and accomplish the same thing...this is not gospel....not the only way ....just A way to get going.

OK...lets get started...

Typically, when resin is cast...there may be a "Mold Release" used to help the resin parts come cleanly from the silicone molds. This Mold release should be washed off to help your primer make a better bond to the resin. You will hear many suggestions to what to use, but here in the basic...just getting started, I am going to say simply use warm water and a degreasing dish soap. This soap with accomplish two things, first is will wash off the mold release and second, the soap will help break the surface tension and allow for a better bond. Scrub your parts with an old tooth brush and rinse with warm water and let the parts air dry overnight.

Now, with your parts all clean, you are ready to begin sanding down the mold
lines on the parts. Taking each part, using sandpaper/needle files / dremmel,
etc... smooth down the mold line.

Now, with your parts all sanded and smooth, you are ready to begin assembly.
For a tighter, stronger fit, you will want to pin the joining parts together.
What you will want to do is measure/mark off where the pin will meet at both
pieces at the joint and drill holes into the parts.

At times, this can be tough to get right. An easy way to set your pin is to glue
the parts together and drill into the kit so that the pin will set into both of the joining parts.

For the pin, you can use old wire coat hangers, brass rod (found at most
hobby and hardware stores, etc..), threaded rod, nails, screws, etc...
Measure the length of the pin and cut to size.
With the pin holes made, test fit the parts.

Now, there are all kinds of glues, but I prefer to use Devcon Plastic Welder.
Basically, this is a 2 part epoxy that you mix equal portions. The glue sets up in
4 minutes and has a test strength of 4500 lbs for a good solid joint. You can
find Plastic Welder near the other 30 minute 5 minute Epoxy glues at your local
hardware store or Walmart. Attach each part, one at a time, holding the joining
parts for a few minutes until the epoxy sets up.

Once you have your kit is assembled, you will need to putty up the seams
of the joining parts. I recommend Aves Apoxie Sculpt and Aves Safety Solvent.

Aves makes a putty that is very easy to work with and is non-toxic. Mix your
Aves Apoxie Sculpt with two equal parts and using a sculpting tool and your
fingers, apply the putty over the seams. (you may need to resculpt in any
detail or texture if the joint has that). and Aves can be smoothed out simply
taking an old paint brush and feathering it out with the Safety Solvent.

After you have puttied up the seams, allow the putty to set up overnight.
You can come back the next day and sand it down for further smoothing.

And there you have built your kit. Wipe your kit down with a lint
free cloth and prime it using Dupli-Color light Grey "Filler" primer (this can
be found at most Auto chain stores and your local Walmart in the auto
section). Prime your kit with a few light coats to get a nice even coverage,
do not try and "Hose" your kit with one heavy spray of primer to avoid
heavy build up and such.

There you start painting