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I am not familiar with that resin however, most clear resins (urethane) are in the aliphatic family of resins... these do not do well in a platinum silicone system such as Dragon Skin (the exception would be Mold Star 15, 16 or 30, which work really well) Typically these types of resins should be ca...

I will try to add my 2 cents when possible.... I have *some* experience in this area

try baby powder in your mold prior to pouring the resin to release surface tension in the mold

I will be working it... booth #230... stop by and say 'hi' if you get a chance!

Just wanted to thank everyone that stopped by the Smooth-On booth! I love talking to you guys and seeing familiar faces from show to show! Dave did an awesome job putting the show together and the talent, be it sculpting or super clean castings and mold making, always blow me away! It is fun being a...

no, not at all.... Krylon has a couple offenders in their line... even the Crystal Clear low odor I have seen cause issue from time to time... I usually use the triple gloss or the normal version....

Mold Star 30 will work fine and you don't need the "pot that sucks the air out"... just don't put anything on the model before you make the mold!

Hey sorry! Just saw this (and the PM)... I was away on business.... it most likely is the latex in the primer.... no need to primer it.... Just Crystal Clear it (or don't, that is OK too)
Do a small patch with the Smooth Sil 945 to make sure it cures.... the primer could also affect that.

Looks Awesome! Great pose! Great dynamic action!

Tin-based silicones are usually a little more successful at this crumb rubber than platinum-based silicones are.... in any case, the best advice is to try it... but generally speaking platinums have a window of only a couple days before their ability to chemically bond together is affected. Wouldn'...

Tin-based silicones are usually a little more successful at this crumb rubber than platinum-based silicones are.... in any case, the best advice is to try it... but generally speaking platinums have a window of only a couple days before their ability to chemically bond together is affected.

As always your work is top notch!!!! Your attention to detail is amazing, my eyes are happier items just for the chance to look at your sculpts!
Great work!

Spockr wrote: Thanks for the heads up but I'm not sure what's meant by 'green pieces"?

green is another word for new or freshly made piece, something that hasn't aged

you have great advice here! The only thing I would caution and it isn't a BIG caution... more informational... Any bondo type product is polyester-based... which generally is fine except when it is really fresh as it contains a lot of styrene (that great fiberglass smell!) Styrene can cause issue wi...

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I used OOMOO 25, mixed it by weight 1/1 and it had horrible tear strength. ...and any molds that I pressured had surface bubbles or pins from the silicone not being degassed. When I called Smooth On they told me to degass it or pressurize the silicone. I switched to Dragon Skin, and now use the Mol...

WOW SPEECHLESS!

Hey Rick, how's the adhesion with the Equinox 38? The 35 set up so fast that by the time I mixed up more it didn't adhere to itself at all. Does the 30 minute cure time help out with that on the 38? Chris, The adhesion is 'OK'... the issue with the putty is it has oils in it (Lanolin) for the skin ...

Equinox putty is a 1:1 platinum silicone... comes in many different speeds
Equinox® 35 FAST Putty - Shore 35A hardness
Equinox® 38 MEDIUM Putty - Shore 38A hardness
Equinox® 40 SLOW Putty - Shore 40A hardness

http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubbe ... index.html

You could look at the EpoxAcast 690... water clear, can be cast as low as 1/32" and as thick as 2".. it is a by weight mix ratio but does not have to be degassed at all... and does not shrink... in a thinner section I would give it a full 48 hour cure... thicker sections, 1 day cure is fin...