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A list of Glue's to use for Clear parts.
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- WOLFMAN66
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A list of Glue's to use for Clear parts.
Alot of Times people ask what types of glue can you use to glue clear parts together without fogging up the parts here is three types of glue that can be used and if you know any other brand that you have tried that might work feel free to post on here and help out your fellow modelers.
Elmers glue or wood glueClear: parts, fiber optics, and temporary tack-ups.
Canopy Glue (Formula 560) by Pacer:This glue dries clear and slightly flexible. It is basically a very high quality white glue and will not mar, melt or otherwise damage parts. It does not dry very fast; but depending on the amount applied, it can dry within a half hour.Clear parts, fiber optics, and temporary tack-up
Elmers glue or wood glueClear: parts, fiber optics, and temporary tack-ups.
Canopy Glue (Formula 560) by Pacer:This glue dries clear and slightly flexible. It is basically a very high quality white glue and will not mar, melt or otherwise damage parts. It does not dry very fast; but depending on the amount applied, it can dry within a half hour.Clear parts, fiber optics, and temporary tack-up
Last edited by WOLFMAN66 on October 20th, 2008, 4:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I can't swear to it as I have done any glueing of clear plastic lately; but I've read that you can use standard CA glue if you soak the clear parts in Future floor wax first. The article says that something in the wax keeps the parts from fogging. As I said, I can't swear to it; just passing on the information that I've read. I would be interested in knowing how well it works though if anyone else has tried this method.
- WOLFMAN66
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I also heard you can use Plastic weld.But never tried myself andif anyone has let use know here how it worked out for ya?
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Plastic weld will work, but if there's any shifting in the kit parts, it'll mar the join and not look too good if it's visible through the clear part. Plus, there's also the risk of having some of the solvent running up on the clear part, ruining it.
CA will fog the clear styrene. If it's not too bad, it's possible to sand out the damage. Future Floor Polish, isn't wax, but an acrylic polymer. Think clear acrylic paint. It will help keep the CA from fogging the clear parts, and also give the clear parts a great, mirror smooth shine.
I find PVA glues, like Elmer's White glue, any of the craft type glues used in scrapbooking, jewelry making (I think they are all varieties of white glue) will work.
I also like jeweler's watch crystal cement like GS Hypo Cement. It dries clear and has a very strong bond.
CA will fog the clear styrene. If it's not too bad, it's possible to sand out the damage. Future Floor Polish, isn't wax, but an acrylic polymer. Think clear acrylic paint. It will help keep the CA from fogging the clear parts, and also give the clear parts a great, mirror smooth shine.
I find PVA glues, like Elmer's White glue, any of the craft type glues used in scrapbooking, jewelry making (I think they are all varieties of white glue) will work.
I also like jeweler's watch crystal cement like GS Hypo Cement. It dries clear and has a very strong bond.
Steven
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Oh, and MODEL ON!
CALM DOWN. It's only a hobby.
Oh, and MODEL ON!
- ignatz
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I've used it. It strikes me as remarkable similar to PVC, or white glue. It works pretty much the same way at any rate. I think it's a better value to go to the craft store or Home Depot and pick up a big bottle of DAP, Titebond, or Elmer's white glue.
Steven
CALM DOWN. It's only a hobby.
Oh, and MODEL ON!
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Oh, and MODEL ON!
- Roy Kirchoff
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Here's how Markenstein did his clear bottles.
First I dremeled (yes you can use a dremel for more that saluting) off, from the inside of the bottles, all the locating pins, holes and flange that the pins and holes are on. I also ground off all the ejector pin marks. You also want to open up the tops of the bottles so you can get your syringe in them later. Then I sanded smooth the insides of the bottle. Then using Novus 3 step polish, I polished the insides of the bottles (don't forget the edges). At this point they are almost perfectly smooth and clear. Next I coated the insides with Future Floor wax. This stuff is great. Future removes all tiny scratches and imperfections and leaves a smooth glassy (that's what were looking for) surface.
Now it's time to glue the halves together, harder than it sounds because you removed your locating pins. I used Testors glue. Use it sparingly (so none runs down the insides of the bottle), but use enough so that it seals the bottle. Clamp the bottle and give plenty time to dry. I used Testors because it dries quite clear (when used sparingly) and dries strong. Testors White glue didn't have a strong enough bond, and broke after handling the glued together halves. Tenax is so thin that it ran down the insides of my tediously polished bottles and fogged everything up (arghhh). Super Glue's also fog up the plastic. Bad idea.
Now you have bottles that are super clean and clear on the inside buy still average on the outside.
Take an exacto and gently scrape the seam on the outside. What you're trying to do here is remove any misalignment that happened as a result of removing those locator pins. You need to be careful during this procedure because you don't want anything (scrapings, sanding dust, polish) to fall inside your bottle. Next, hand polish the seam areas to eliminate any "ridge". Close your eyes and see if you can feel any seam. When you have that seam virtually eliminated to the touch, it's time for the next step.
Stick a wire in the hole in the top of the bottle and dip (the bottle) in Future.
There you have it. Once it's dry you will not be able to feel any seams, although you can still sort of see them.
His PL Bride of Frankenstein took the overall award at WF 1999.
RK
First I dremeled (yes you can use a dremel for more that saluting) off, from the inside of the bottles, all the locating pins, holes and flange that the pins and holes are on. I also ground off all the ejector pin marks. You also want to open up the tops of the bottles so you can get your syringe in them later. Then I sanded smooth the insides of the bottle. Then using Novus 3 step polish, I polished the insides of the bottles (don't forget the edges). At this point they are almost perfectly smooth and clear. Next I coated the insides with Future Floor wax. This stuff is great. Future removes all tiny scratches and imperfections and leaves a smooth glassy (that's what were looking for) surface.
Now it's time to glue the halves together, harder than it sounds because you removed your locating pins. I used Testors glue. Use it sparingly (so none runs down the insides of the bottle), but use enough so that it seals the bottle. Clamp the bottle and give plenty time to dry. I used Testors because it dries quite clear (when used sparingly) and dries strong. Testors White glue didn't have a strong enough bond, and broke after handling the glued together halves. Tenax is so thin that it ran down the insides of my tediously polished bottles and fogged everything up (arghhh). Super Glue's also fog up the plastic. Bad idea.
Now you have bottles that are super clean and clear on the inside buy still average on the outside.
Take an exacto and gently scrape the seam on the outside. What you're trying to do here is remove any misalignment that happened as a result of removing those locator pins. You need to be careful during this procedure because you don't want anything (scrapings, sanding dust, polish) to fall inside your bottle. Next, hand polish the seam areas to eliminate any "ridge". Close your eyes and see if you can feel any seam. When you have that seam virtually eliminated to the touch, it's time for the next step.
Stick a wire in the hole in the top of the bottle and dip (the bottle) in Future.
There you have it. Once it's dry you will not be able to feel any seams, although you can still sort of see them.
His PL Bride of Frankenstein took the overall award at WF 1999.
RK
Talk minus action equals zero.
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That would be the legendary Bride of Frankenstein kit.
The one Markenstein took gold and best of show with at WF several years ago.
The one Markenstein took gold and best of show with at WF several years ago.
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Re: A list of Glue's to use for Clear parts.
I've just discovered this new 5 Second Fix glue that cures with a little UV light to be AWESOME for clear canopies. It dries hard and fast and is pretty good with various materials.
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Re: A list of Glue's to use for Clear parts.
Cool! I just bought a pack of this stuff only because I found it cheap on a closeout table at Dollar General store.LrdSatyr8 wrote:I've just discovered this new 5 Second Fix glue that cures with a little UV light to be AWESOME for clear canopies. It dries hard and fast and is pretty good with various materials.
I haven't used any of it yet. Good to know it lives up to expectations.
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Re: A list of Glue's to use for Clear parts.
I've been using watch crystal cement for decades:
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- Squire of the Sprue
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Re: A list of Glue's to use for Clear parts.
Where can you get this watch glue?
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Re: A list of Glue's to use for Clear parts.
Michaels, JoAnn's, Amazon, WalMart, and a biunch of other places.timetraveler wrote:Where can you get this watch glue?
Google >>> https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=c ... o%20cement