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Kit bases

Focused on all the big critters. Dinosaurs and KAIJU!
With added discussion of creating dioramas, shadowboxes, vignettes and bases

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modelmania
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Kit bases

#1 Post by modelmania »

Hi,
Probably brought up here many times, but where can I get round ceramic, pottery disks to display my figure models on?
Do you folks prefer wood?
I just thought plastic or pottery would provide a smoother surface to finish.
Thanks

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Re: Kit bases

#2 Post by Frank-Holger »

This is a question only you can answer... I personally prefer personal made Bases, mostly from different types of wood, irregular shaped, rough or smooth, detailed with terrain, technical stuff or build a terrain over and IN the wood base, melt it together. Sometimes you can use cool looking stones, a bit overworked, a piece of metal for SF stuff or anything you like. I think it is important to "make over" this that it fits top to the figure you would like to present. And it depends a bit on the scale. I build maximum 120mm figures, mostly 28 or 54mm stuff, so it is a bit easier to handle. For the bigger 1:6 stuff your "think about" work is a bit more complex.

Frank :D

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Re: Kit bases

#3 Post by JJCap1 »

In the stair section at Lowes or Home Depot, they have small wood ovals called rosettes. These are great for smaller bases because its a quality wood needing little prep work. For something larger I go to Michaels or AC Moore and get bass wood plaques. DON'T GET PINE!

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Re: Kit bases

#4 Post by kevtk135 »

I can only find the wooden ones from Michaels/AC Moore by me. But what I do (yeah it takes a bit of time) is spray the base with with a sanding sealer, lightly sand, then black primer. I go back and forth a few times until the grain disappears then hit it with a black gloss and it comes out really smooth for me. HTH.
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Re: Kit bases

#5 Post by Joker Laugh »

If you want matching bases you best either make them yourself or find somewhere that sells something you can use or convert easily over and over again. If you want different bases for different sized models, Charity stores sell cheap wooden bases that already have old unwanted statues on them, Simply get a flat screwdriver and a hammer and chizzel the connection between the statue and the wood to easily remove it. Then just add your kit instead.
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Re: Kit bases

#6 Post by PROFESSOR JARROD »

I make my own custom wood bases, I use various types of wood depending on the type of kit I plan to display on the base.
I like to make bases that compliment,add character and are unique to each kit being displayed. I take a metal washer that measures 1 1/2" to 2" from the outside edge of the washer to the inside edge of the hole in the center of the washer and trace around the resin kit base if the kit is supplied with one, tracing the outline of the resin base onto my wood sub base. The overlap of the outline on the wood is then cut out with my band saw, cleaned up on the oscillating spindle sander, routed with the router table, then finishing sanding completed by hand and with a palm sander and then stained depending on the type of wood and satin spray varnished. I like using these wood sub bases because after you have put allot of hard work and time into completing your model masterpiece the wood sub base completes and displays the kit like a trophy.
Another nice thing about using wood sub bases is that when you handle your kit you don't have to touch the model kit itself thus preserving the paint job.
The huge advantage of using a wood sub base is that it gives a thicker surface for added support for pining a figure to when it only comes with a thin resin base.

(Additional Information)

I like to make my figures removable from the base that they are mounted to so if I decide to store them to move etc. or want to transport them to a model show I can disassemble and wrap them for protection during transportation.

"My favorite way of mounting the figures to the base is as follows."
After my wood base has been made and before a finish coat has been applied to it, I center my unpainted resin base on my new wood sub base, then I hold my unpainted figure in position where I want it to stand on the base and trace the outline of the figures feet onto the resin base. Next centering my resin on wood bases and using my drill press to drill perfectly vertical holes I drill a hole in each of the feet heel outlines that extend through both bases. I drill through the heels of the feet because this allows the brass pins I install to extend up into the legs of the figure for the best support.
The holes that are drilled in the bases's are large enough to insert Brass tubing that extends flush from the surface of the resin base down through to the bottom of the wood sub base. I rough up the out side of the brass tubing with sand paper and then epoxy and insert the tubing into the wood sub base but not to the resin base at this time, after these steps have been completed I get a little help from my wife to hold the figure in position in the foot outlines on the resin base and using a hand held electric drill with a bit that fits the precise inside diameter of the brass tubing which extends through the bases I drill from under the wood and resin bases up into the feet and legs of the figure extending into the legs about 1 1/2." Now I cut two pins which are the exact diameter as the inside circumference of the tubing in the base, theyt extend up into the figures legs and down into the two bases until they are near the bottom of the wood sub base. Just rough up the upper portion of the brass pins and epoxy them into the Figures legs. (Note) Before I sand and install the brass pins into the figures feet I like to put them into the chuck on my drill press and using a fine file I spin the brass pins holding the file gently against the bottom edge of the pins where they insert into the tubing on the base giving the pins a slightly tapered edge for easy insertion and alignment of the figure to the mounting holes in the base. The last stages of completing the new wood sub base is to apply your finish coat to the wood and once that is dry apply a piece of color coordinated self adhesive backed Velcro or velvet to the bottom of the wood base and using a sharp X-Acto knife or razor blade trim away the excess material around the contoured base.

( A few Final Notes)

When making these wood sub bases I often drill additional strategically located holes in my wood bases that extend up into the resin kit base but not through the surface of the resin base, these holes are used to pin and epoxy the resin base securely in place onto the wood sub base.

The really nice thing about using this method of mounting your figure to its base is that the figure fits easily, precisely and securely every time it is installed or removed from its base.

There was allot of reading in this message but well worth it if you are interested in the best method of displaying and preserving your kits in my opinion.

I've made few of these wood bases for other people who have loved the custom fit and look of their finished bases which have really enhanced the look and display of their kits.

"Well I guess that covers it, I hope someone finds this information useful!"

:wave:
Rick
Last edited by PROFESSOR JARROD on May 18th, 2015, 3:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Kit bases

#7 Post by kevtk135 »

Rick,

Thanks I found that *very* useful.

On a similar note to the pins. Has anyone tried the "new" rare earth magnets to hold models to bases? I was toying with the idea of using both pins where I can drill deep into the resin, and magnets were I only have a few cm of space.
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Re: Kit bases

#8 Post by PROFESSOR JARROD »

kevtk135 wrote:Rick,

Thanks I found that *very* useful.

On a similar note to the pins. Has anyone tried the "new" rare earth magnets to hold models to bases? I was toying with the idea of using both pins where I can drill deep into the resin, and magnets were I only have a few cm of space.
That's an interesting thought Kev, I've never considered using magnets, the Geometric Karloff mummy is a kit where a strong magnet might have worked on one of the feet which doesn't allow much thickness for pining, although I did manage to insert a smaller diameter pin in that foot!
Actually if you can find strong enough magnets to secure some items to kit bases like "Crates, Oil Drums or Lab Equipment," items that might otherwise get shaken loose from a model base during transportation to a model show for example could be removed from the base and bubble or plastic foam wrapped for safe transportation and then easily reassembled for display at the show.

Your idea is certainly worth trying!

Thank You
:-k
Rick

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Re: Kit bases

#9 Post by kevtk135 »

I've used small (3mm) magnets of the few minis I have just to see how they worked. The magnets are incredibly strong. Ihave no doubt that a larger size would hold a scale barrel in place on a diorama. I've just never tried it on a larger piece.

I have a 1:6 scale figure that has one pin in it's foot to hold the figure and it's sorta steady. On my shelf there's no one to bump or jostle it. My problem would be if I entered it in a display or competition, I would have doubts about it remaining standing if someone were to bump the model or table. I'll buy some larger magnets I've seen at my LHS and try it out and get back to everyone.
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Re: Kit bases

#10 Post by gmaiocco »

I found a ceramic tile at Lowes that I used as a base for a werewolf build. It's heavy enough to provide a stable base support, but put felt pads under the corners if you plan on putting it on good shelving. Cheap and effective.
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Re: Kit bases

#11 Post by Rocketeer »

kevtk135 wrote:...Has anyone tried the "new" rare earth magnets to hold models to bases? I was toying with the idea of using both pins where I can drill deep into the resin, and magnets were I only have a few cm of space.
A friend of mine used those magnets to hold the hands onto a figure model; he could pop them off so they wouldn't get damaged in transport. I myself plan to use the magnets to connect hoses to the back of a Bride of Frankenstein figure.

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Re: Kit bases

#12 Post by Joker Laugh »

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Re: Kit bases

#13 Post by ancient flatus »

Ceramics shops may pieces that are fired, white and ready to go.
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Re: Kit bases

#14 Post by griffin »

kevtk135 wrote:I can only find the wooden ones from Michaels/AC Moore by me. But what I do (yeah it takes a bit of time) is spray the base with with a sanding sealer, lightly sand, then black primer. I go back and forth a few times until the grain disappears then hit it with a black gloss and it comes out really smooth for me. HTH.
I have used the epoxy finishing resin with wood. R/c airplane guys use it to make balsa look like metal. Use thin coats and you will have little sanding.

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Wood Bases

#15 Post by scuzzfink85 »

Are some good dealers on ebay that sell wood bases in all sizes
and shapes.. Michael's and Jo anns sucks for selection anymore.
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Re: Wood Bases

#16 Post by btbrush »

Might try Googling "wood bases" or "wood plaques" on the Web. Kind of depends on what you're looking for. Didn't we have this discussion before?

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