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Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
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- BobbysMonsterModels
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Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
Hey all,
I haven't seen a thread on this in awhile. I'm working on the brand new X-Plus Cyclops. The parts on this model fit incredibly well. I kinda wish the head had been a front and back, instead of two sides, but it is what it is. There is the odd order of gluing some of the things on this kit, but they do go together rather nicely.
Anyway, I'd like to hear about different methods for filling fine line gaps and seams. This Cyclops model has lots of thin, fine-line, seam/gaps on a very bumpy, textured, gnarly surface. I've used Bob Smith's Thick Gap Filler in the past for thin gap seams, but often you have to apply it many times to finally achieve the gap being filled, and then you have lots of sanding. I've also used white Milliput for gaps, but I find it works best with larger gaps, not the fine thin. It would be nice to maybe try a new method on this model, maybe another product. I just don't want anything messy. Something easy to apply, smooth out, and then maybe use little sculpting tools to blend the texture in.
Would like to hear everyones methods.
I haven't seen a thread on this in awhile. I'm working on the brand new X-Plus Cyclops. The parts on this model fit incredibly well. I kinda wish the head had been a front and back, instead of two sides, but it is what it is. There is the odd order of gluing some of the things on this kit, but they do go together rather nicely.
Anyway, I'd like to hear about different methods for filling fine line gaps and seams. This Cyclops model has lots of thin, fine-line, seam/gaps on a very bumpy, textured, gnarly surface. I've used Bob Smith's Thick Gap Filler in the past for thin gap seams, but often you have to apply it many times to finally achieve the gap being filled, and then you have lots of sanding. I've also used white Milliput for gaps, but I find it works best with larger gaps, not the fine thin. It would be nice to maybe try a new method on this model, maybe another product. I just don't want anything messy. Something easy to apply, smooth out, and then maybe use little sculpting tools to blend the texture in.
Would like to hear everyones methods.
Aspire to inspire, before you retire or expire.
Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
Hiya,
Would spruegoo work in this case?
Would spruegoo work in this case?
- Tim Casey
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
Liquitex Light Modeling Paste!
https://www.dickblick.com/items/liquite ... -8-oz-jar/
Someone on this board mentioned it a few years ago. It's great stuff - put it on with your finger, wipe it off with your finger, and the gap is filled. Cleans up with water. Easy-peasy.
You may want to also get a jar of the medium Modeling Paste in case you run into a bigger gap or other hole. I've had to use it a few times. But the light stuff is used on every model I make.
https://www.dickblick.com/items/liquite ... -8-oz-jar/
Someone on this board mentioned it a few years ago. It's great stuff - put it on with your finger, wipe it off with your finger, and the gap is filled. Cleans up with water. Easy-peasy.
You may want to also get a jar of the medium Modeling Paste in case you run into a bigger gap or other hole. I've had to use it a few times. But the light stuff is used on every model I make.
- derekc62
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
I've been swearing by Modeling Paste for years, ever since I heard about it from Jim Capone...Tim Casey wrote:Liquitex Light Modeling Paste!
https://www.dickblick.com/items/liquite ... -8-oz-jar/
Someone on this board mentioned it a few years ago. It's great stuff - put it on with your finger, wipe it off with your finger, and the gap is filled. Cleans up with water. Easy-peasy.
You may want to also get a jar of the medium Modeling Paste in case you run into a bigger gap or other hole. I've had to use it a few times. But the light stuff is used on every model I make.
The best for minor seams. I still use Aves for the bigger stuff or any minor re-sculpting. Modeling paste won't really hold up for re-sculpting.
Derek Conlon
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
Glad you posted this thread because I'm currently working this awesome kit! This one you really should take a close look at the instruction sheet. I thought I had but I still managed to screw up that left leg. Fortunately I was able too save it which was really lucky because I was using Locktite super glue.
Jeff doesn't follow directions.
Jeff doesn't pay attention.
Jeff doesn't use time wisely,
Jeff doesn't play well with others......
Jeff doesn't pay attention.
Jeff doesn't use time wisely,
Jeff doesn't play well with others......
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
I just ran into this problem and am trying a new tip I picked up.
I have a very fine line where the arms go on this kit
And I really didn't want to try puttying it again, especially with how much paint I have on it now.
So I am trying something I picked up watching one of Vince Venturella's videos.
I laid down a nice bead of clear matte varnish right in the seam.
My first pass seemed to take care of most of it. Today I added a bit more in one spot that still stood out to me.
I will follow up, once I take new pics, and let you know how well it worked.
I have a very fine line where the arms go on this kit
And I really didn't want to try puttying it again, especially with how much paint I have on it now.
So I am trying something I picked up watching one of Vince Venturella's videos.
I laid down a nice bead of clear matte varnish right in the seam.
My first pass seemed to take care of most of it. Today I added a bit more in one spot that still stood out to me.
I will follow up, once I take new pics, and let you know how well it worked.
Trevor Ylisaari
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WANTED - Bat Rider - produced by Wraiths
Check out My Prehistoric Scenes site and forum
"Nothing like a trail of blood
To find your way back home."
WANTED - Bat Rider - produced by Wraiths
- BobbysMonsterModels
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
This sounds like what I'm searching for. I assume it's thick enough to be able to texturize a bit? Does it dry nice and solid?Tim Casey wrote:Liquitex Light Modeling Paste!
Looks really good on your model. I can see where you covered the seams where his legs are attached to his pelvis and where his torso is attached.
Aspire to inspire, before you retire or expire.
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
Paper and crazy glue. From very thin paper to card stock slip in the seam add the glue slowly so the paper absorbs the glue let dry and cut with a very sharp x-acto. Even on very contoured surfaces you can get very good results.
Helena is here at hand;
And the youth, mistook by me,
Pleading for a lover's fee.
Shall we their fond pageant see?
Lord, what fools these mortals be! -Puck
And the youth, mistook by me,
Pleading for a lover's fee.
Shall we their fond pageant see?
Lord, what fools these mortals be! -Puck
- Tim Casey
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
It seams to. Get it? "seams" to?BobbysMonsterModels wrote:Does it dry nice and solid?Tim Casey wrote:Liquitex Light Modeling Paste!
Sorry.
Yes, it seems to hold up very well in small amounts. And that other tip about paper and crazy glue sounds intriguing...
- motherhen
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
Liquid paper works for me.
It's not that I think stupidity should be punishable by death.
I just think we should take the warning labels off of everything and let the problem take care of itself.
I just think we should take the warning labels off of everything and let the problem take care of itself.
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Re: Cleaning up seams and gap-filling...
I've used a white plastic paste that comes out of a tube, and which I then immediately remove the excess with my finger. I am not at home, so I can't look it up. I'm going to have to deal with this situation soon too, because this is one of the kids that I have in my stash.
Bucketfoot-Al
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