STYRENE VS VINYL VS RESIN [New]

[Squidy53]

STYRENE VS VINYL VS RESIN



Quick Profiles

Styrene (Injection‑Molded Polystyrene)

• Strengths - Solvent‑weld assembly = clean, strong, invisible seams. - Ideal for kit‑bashing: easy to cut, engrave, and integrate with sheet/rod stock. - Paint‑agnostic after light scuff; accepts lacquers/enamels/acrylics. - Stable geometry; parts stay true on bases/dioramas.

• Watch‑outs - Some factory mold lines/sink marks; older tools can be soft. - Large organic forms (creatures) may look segmented due to part breakdown.

• Paint notes - Prime is optional; for best grip use a plastic primer or scuff with 800–1000 grit. - Hot lacquers are fine if primed; avoid puddling on thin parts.

• Best use cases - Hard‑surface subjects (ships, craft, robots) and scratch‑build heavy projects.

Vinyl (Soft PVC/PE)

• Strengths - Superb for large organic figures (monsters/kaiju) with lightweight hollow casts. - Re‑posing & fit tuning via hot‑water/heat‑gun is easy. - Resistant to breakage; great for big display pieces.

• Watch‑outs - Needs a barrier/primer to avoid plasticizer bleed and long‑term tackiness. - Seams on hollow parts can be challenging to make invisible. - Detail can soften with excess heat; supports/armatures needed to prevent leaning.

• Paint notes - Always prime with a vinyl‑safe primer. Acrylic systems with flexible additives are safest. - Avoid strong reducers/hot lacquers directly on raw vinyl; use over cured primer.

• Best use cases - Large creatures, kaiju, horror characters where poseability and weight matter.

Resin (Cast Polyurethane & 3D‑Printed Resins)

• Strengths - Highest detail: sharp textures, deep undercuts, crisp anatomy & props. - Boutique/garage kits cover niche subjects ideal for fantastic genres. - Excellent for re‑sculpting with epoxy putties; takes scribing and drilling cleanly.

• Watch‑outs - Must be degreased (mold release) before primer. - Brittle edges; mistakes chip rather than bend; pin thin parts. - Health: sanding/cutting creates fine dust—wet‑sand and wear a respirator. - 3D prints may show layer lines/support nubs; some resins are more brittle.

• Paint notes - Always prime; then any system (acrylic/enamel/lacquer) works. - For 3D prints, filler‑primers help bury micro striations.

• Best use cases - Highly detailed figures/creatures, elaborate bases, small runs, conversions.

Detailed Characteristics

Kit‑Bash & Modification Suitability

• Styrene – A+: Cuts/scribes clean; solvent welding makes invisible joins; integrates seamlessly with sheet/rod (Plastruct/Evergreen). Ideal for mechanical add‑ons, diorama architecture, and part‑swaps.

• Vinyl – B: Excellent for re‑posing via heat; structural joins rely on pins + CA/epoxy. Fine, sharp scratch‑built details are harder; use epoxy putty skins and internal armatures.

• Resin – A: Cuts/drills well; takes epoxy putty sculpting beautifully. Plan for pinning load‑bearing joins; test‑fit extensively. Wet‑sand to manage dust.

Availability & Pricing (Fantastic‑Subject Focus)

• Styrene: Steady availability via mainstream brands and periodic reissues (classic monsters/TV, some new sci‑fi). Most affordable on a size basis; aftermarket abundant.

• Vinyl: Peaks in 1990s–2000s; currently niche/collector space with intermittent new offerings (especially kaiju/character). Prices moderate to high for large pieces; many sought‑after kits are OOP.

• Resin: Dominant in garage/boutique and 3D‑print markets; constant flow of new sculpts. Prices high per volume, but unmatched subject breadth; shipping can add substantially.

Prep & Paint Quick Reference

• Styrene: Wash parts → light scuff → assemble with solvent cement → spot putty → prime (optional but recommended) → paint (any system).

• Vinyl: Heat‑fit and internal support → wash thoroughly → vinyl‑safe primer → acrylic/flexible paints → seal with flexible clear.

• Resin: Degrease twice → pin/test‑fit → CA/epoxy assembly → epoxy putty seam work → resin/filler primer → paint (any system) → optional satin/matte clear.

Safety Essentials

• Vinyl: Ventilate when heating; avoid scorching. Keep parts supported during cure to prevent long‑term sag.

• Resin: Wet‑sand; wear a P2/N95 (or better) respirator when sanding/cutting; vacuum and wipe down. Avoid food‑area cleanup.

• All: Eye protection when drilling/pinning; gloves for strong solvents.

Also: AIRBRUSH AND RATTLE-CAN SAFETY: viewtopic.php?t=126797

Recommendations by Project Type

• Large creature/kaiju centerpiece (1/6–1/4): Vinyl for weight/pose; consider resin for sharper detail if display case protected.

• Highly detailed character/monster (1/10–1/6): Resin for fidelity; mix with 3D‑printed accessories.

• Mechanical builds, vehicles, bases/structures: Styrene for build speed, strength, and kit‑bash ease.

• Heavy conversions: Resin or Styrene depending on source kit; use epoxy putty and pins; reserve vinyl for pose changes rather than fine detail.

Adhesive & Filler Cheat‑Sheet

• Styrene → Styrene: Solvent cement (Tamiya Extra Thin, MEK), capillary application.

• Vinyl: Medium CA or 5‑min epoxy; reinforce big joins with brass rod/epoxy putty.

• Resin: Medium/gel CA + accelerator; 5–15‑min epoxy for structural; epoxy putty (Milliput/Aves) for seams and re‑sculpt.

Common Pitfalls & Fixes

• Vinyl paint tackiness: Use barrier/primer; allow long cure; switch to acrylics/flexible clears.

• Resin oily surfaces/paint fish‑eyes: Degrease (warm water + detergent, then isopropyl), dry thoroughly; re‑prime.

• Styrene ghost seams: Weld properly, let cure, scrape/sand, and re‑scribe before primer.

• Leaning vinyl figures: Install armatures/dowels into base; back‑fill limbs with epoxy putty/PU foam (careful with expansion).

Bottom Line

• Styrene: Best for kit‑bashing and structural builds; cheapest; universally paint‑friendly.

• Vinyl: Best for large, organic figures and easy re‑posing; needs proper priming/armature; finish with flexible paint systems.

• Resin: Best for ultimate detail and niche subjects; requires more prep and safety discipline; widest availability in the garage/3D‑print scene.

[Tim Casey]

Is that all you have to say about it? Jeesh...

(That was sarcasm). Seriously, that's a lot of knowledge you just typed up!

[tay666]

[Stormheart]

Great quick reference, thanks!

[bucketfoot-al]

Amazing Squiddy - This is a REALLY INVALUABLE resource!!

I do have ONE 'bone to pick' with your analysis - and it has to do with VINYL.

The "re-poseability with heat" for vinyl is technically true, but often temporary - (some parts can revert back with Summer Heat - vinyl requires re-sculpting with epoxy putty for solid permanence, as I found out the hard way over 20 years ago), so ...

*READ ON*

Vinyl is AWESOME for customizing with armatures AND two-part resin putties. It also CUTS very easily, which is a GREAT boon in the re-sculpting process, as pieces can be cut up, connected by interior rods and then re-sculpted with putty, then texturized fairly easily.

Just refer to my long-running "Dino-bashing" thread for myriad examples.

In my book, Vinyl gets an "A+" for kitbashing and resculpting customization. There is virtually no limit to what you can combine with a vinyl kit due to its maleability (cutting resin is much dicier, and not practical with the "printed" resin due to its natural brittleness. The hardness of resin is also much less forgiving than the softness of vinyl).

The main trick to have to learn with vinyl is the importance of building an interior "skeleton" to hold up the larger kits to prevent later sagging. This is as simple as using metal rods secured on the interior by hooking through the vinyl skin, then puttying over the exterior link and also securing it with putty on the inside prior to assembling the pieces - much easier and just as durable as filling the hollow vinyl and making it too heavy). It takes practice, but - hey - that is true for any discipline of The Hobby.

Just scroll through and see any of my vinyl dinosaur kitbashes for examples of what can be done with vinyl with some practice, vision, and a combination of metal rods and 2-part epoxy putty (then making skin stamps to use, or hand texturizing the re-sculpted epoxy areas while soft, once you become experienced, can make them indistinguishable from the original vinyl kit textures once painted up).

Best of all - when kitbashing vinyl, you can add resin AND styrene pieces, if desired, in the kitbashing process of your vinyl pieces - like I have done many, many times! I have 'bashed vinyl dinosaur kits by combining them with both styrene and resin pieces, all in the same bash.

In summation, those are the reasons I find that vinyl, for me, is HANDS DOWN the preferred kitbashing medium.

I disagree with the "A" rating for bashing that you gave styrene - in my experience the very brittleness, as well as inflexibility of styrene makes it a more difficult medium than vinyl for the kind of all-encompassing kitbashing I specialize in.

My experience submitted for your consideration.

[Squidy53]

I'm glad you think it's useful and thanks as always for your valuable feedback.

Amazing Squiddy - This is a REALLY INVALUABLE resource!!

I do have ONE 'bone to pick' with your analysis - and it has to do with VINYL.

The "re-poseability with heat" for vinyl is technically true, but often temporary - (some parts can revert back with Summer Heat - vinyl requires re-sculpting with epoxy putty for solid permanence, as I found out the hard way over 20 years ago), so ...

Agreed, I think as you say later any lasting re-posing much be underpinned with internal support. I will emphasis this in the text.

*READ ON*

Vinyl is AWESOME for customizing with armatures AND two-part resin putties. It also CUTS very easily, which is a GREAT boon in the re-sculpting process, as pieces can be cut up, connected by interior rods and then re-sculpted with putty, then texturized fairly easily.

Just refer to my long-running "Dino-bashing" thread for myriad examples.

In my book, Vinyl gets an "A+" for kitbashing and resculpting customization. There is virtually no limit to what you can combine with a vinyl kit due to its maleability (cutting resin is much dicier, and not practical with the "printed" resin due to its natural brittleness. The hardness of resin is also much less forgiving than the softness of vinyl).

The main trick to have to learn with vinyl is the importance of building an interior "skeleton" to hold up the larger kits to prevent later sagging. This is as simple as using metal rods secured on the interior by hooking through the vinyl skin, then puttying over the exterior link and also securing it with putty on the inside prior to assembling the pieces - much easier and just as durable as filling the hollow vinyl and making it too heavy). It takes practice, but - hey - that is true for any discipline of The Hobby.

No argument from me. In regards weight it does matter what you reinforce it with. I bow to your much greater experience, but I have vinyl models that have held their form when filled with compacted newspaper and expandable foam and are therefore very light. Your view?

Just scroll through and see any of my vinyl dinosaur kitbashes for examples of what can be done with vinyl with some practice, vision, and a combination of metal rods and 2-part epoxy putty (then making skin stamps to use, or hand texturizing the re-sculpted epoxy areas while soft, once you become experienced, can make them indistinguishable from the original vinyl kit textures once painted up).

Absolutely.

Best of all - when kitbashing vinyl, you can add resin AND styrene pieces, if desired, in the kitbashing process of your vinyl pieces - like I have done many, many times! I have 'bashed vinyl dinosaur kits by combining them with both styrene and resin pieces, all in the same bash.

In summation, those are the reasons I find that vinyl, for me, is HANDS DOWN the preferred kitbashing medium.

OK, but as you've noted this is a subjective view.

I disagree with the "A" rating for bashing that you gave styrene - in my experience the very brittleness, as well as inflexibility of styrene makes it a more difficult medium than vinyl for the kind of all-encompassing kitbashing I specialize in.

There are many enthusiastic advocates for styrene bashing but I perhaps can gently modify the text to reflect that styrene can be great for kitbashing hardware subjects but tougher for organic forms. OK?

My experience submitted for your consideration.

I would probably agree with you about that vinyl is the easiest to modify/kitbash. However, in attempting to retain some level of objectivity I think I need to temper that view. I think for example that Joe barad_dur would cite the superiority of resin as the best for bashing. Joe?

Great stuff. Thanks again Vlad. Keep it comin'.

[tay666]

I disagree with the "A" rating for bashing that you gave styrene - in my experience the very brittleness, as well as inflexibility of styrene makes it a more difficult medium than vinyl for the kind of all-encompassing kitbashing I specialize in.

I disagree with your disagreement
I find styrene quite easy to kitbash. Especially when it comes to gluing things together. You can get a very good bond in a small area to hold things together, then go back in with either putty, more styrene, or sprue goo to fill things in.
As far as brittleness, you aren't heating it up enough. If you apply enough heat, you can do some interesting things. I turned an entire torso and twisted the tail on a styrene Godzilla https://www.tylisaari.com/models/zilla/ ... zillab.htm
Also, if you use heat on your tools you can melt details into the styrene. You would be surprised what you can do with razor knife heated over a candle flame. Great for restoring skin texture in dinosaur kits.

The biggest downfall of styrene is the soft detail on the edge of the parts in order for the parts to release from the mold.

[bucketfoot-al]

I disagree with the "A" rating for bashing that you gave styrene - in my experience the very brittleness, as well as inflexibility of styrene makes it a more difficult medium than vinyl for the kind of all-encompassing kitbashing I specialize in.

I disagree with your disagreement
I find styrene quite easy to kitbash. Especially when it comes to gluing things together. You can get a very good bond in a small area to hold things together, then go back in with either putty, more styrene, or sprue goo to fill things in.
As far as brittleness, you aren't heating it up enough. If you apply enough heat, you can do some interesting things. I turned an entire torso and twisted the tail on a styrene Godzilla https://www.tylisaari.com/models/zilla/ ... zillab.htm
Also, if you use heat on your tools you can melt details into the styrene. You would be surprised what you can do with razor knife heated over a candle flame. Great for restoring skin texture in dinosaur kits.

The biggest downfall of styrene is the soft detail on the edge of the parts in order for the parts to release from the mold.

WHOA! That's a lot of mighty good information you just dropped on me there Trevor!

I'm going to reread that and keep it very much in mind the next time I get started on a styrene kit, of which I have at least one dinosaur in the queue. The part about heating the styrene in order to make it easier to customize!

In fact, now that I have this information, I am emboldened to try to take that Tamiya Brachiosaurus and radically repose it into a rearing pose.

You are right, and your comments reminded me that my experience with styrene is rather limited since I started kit bashing.

Squiddy, you have opened up a mighty mighty productive thread here, and I for one appreciate it and I'm grateful to you for it!

[Tim Casey]

You would be surprised what you can do with razor knife heated over a candle flame. Great for restoring skin texture in dinosaur kits.

Yikes! I'm going to have to try that.

[bucketfoot-al]

Squiddy, the only thing other than using metal rods and coating the inside of hollow parts like torsos and legs with putty that I have tried was to fill the legs of that giant Sauroposeidon kit Bash that I'm waiting to paint with styrofoam filler popcorn, packed in tight, and then sealed with a layer of resin above the top of each leg, before the rods from the body were inserted and puttied over. That was kind of an added insurance, as the Kaiyodo Brachiosaurus kit legs are really solid and thick vinyl anyway.

I think every single vinyl kit that you build up or kitbash should be evaluated on its own merits, because smaller simpler kits usually will not require the same level of reinforcement as a giant hollow T-Rex will, for example.

And if you are new to all this, you really have to take your time and think it through carefully before proceeding. 20 years ago when I built my giant darga t-rex versus triceratops horizon kit, I did not reinforce all of the interior areas of the T-Rex for example resulting in one leg warping in the heat several times, requiring repairs, and then finally two separate metal rods under different parts of the body to hold it up.

If I were to do that build again today, which I might, because I have two more of those kits unbuilt, I would prepare a much more elaborate support system, and the figures would stand on their own fine without needing any exterior support rods.

[tay666]

And if you are new to all this, you really have to take your time and think it through carefully before proceeding. 20 years ago when I built my giant darga t-rex versus triceratops horizon kit, I did not reinforce all of the interior areas of the T-Rex for example resulting in one leg warping in the heat several times, requiring repairs, and then finally two separate metal rods under different parts of the body to hold it up.

If I were to do that build again today, which I might, because I have two more of those kits unbuilt, I would prepare a much more elaborate support system, and the figures would stand on their own fine without needing any exterior support rods.

Yeah, I plan on doing some engineering before I even start building the Screamin Red Dragon I have in my stash.
Four legs, that tail, the long neck, and of course those huge wings.

[Squidy53]

Ok, thanks for that guys. I will synthesise your wisdoms into the guide over the next few days.

[Tim Casey]

Well, if we're talking making vinyl stand on it's own two legs, I usually assemble the legs and hips (or whatever's on the lower half of your monster) and then fill them with plaster. It takes a few days to dry, but then the bottom is as heavy and as sturdy as resin.

I filled the Screamin' 1/4 scale "London After Midnight" figure with sand decades ago. One of the kids knocked it over and the floor was covered in sand!

He's doing much better nowadays...

[bucketfoot-al]

Well, if we're talking making vinyl stand on it's own two legs, I usually assemble the legs and hips (or whatever's on the lower half of your monster) and then fill them with plaster. It takes a few days to dry, but then the bottom is as heavy and as sturdy as resin.

I filled the Screamin' 1/4 scale "London After Midnight" figure with sand decades ago. One of the kids knocked it over and the floor was covered in sand!

He's doing much better nowadays...

That story about the sand is a great one from the 'well I tried it once' playbook!

I could probably dredge up more than a few similar stories if I tried.

The only thing I would add to what you wrote, is that while filling the legs of smaller figures with plaster indeed simplifies things, and I have done it too, it doesn't work so well if you have a huge figure, like a 1:18 scale Kaiyodo Brachiosaurus, for example. (Ask me how I know )

Yes, I did that when I first built up the kit 20 years ago, and regretted it instantly the first time I tried to pick it up.

For my current Sauroposeidon bash that utilized another copy of that giant Brachiosaurus kit, I learned my lesson and filled the legs with tightly packed styrofoam popcorn sealed with a resin 'lid' (anyone can follow and see the process on my ongoing dino bashes thread). Solid as a rock now.

My only point here is the obvious one, every technique is useful under the right circumstances, but should not be relied on as a 'one size fits all' fix in all situations..

[Squidy53]

In addition to revising the Styrene vs Vinyl vs Resin guide with your feedback I'm going to supplement it with some external references that more fully articulate the issues. e.g. https://www.starshipmodeler.com/basics/lj_vinyl.htm

[tay666]

[bucketfoot-al]

In addition to revising the Styrene vs Vinyl vs Resin guide with your feedback I'm going to supplement it with some external references that more fully articulate the issues. e.g. https://www.starshipmodeler.com/basics/lj_vinyl.htm

Awesome idea Steve!!