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Now.....it is important, what I am
about to explain is nothing more than
1 way of going about things. There are several ways to go about and
accomplish the same thing...this is not gospel....not the only way
....just A way to get going.
OK...lets get started...
Typically, when resin is cast...there may be a "Mold Release"
used to help the resin parts come cleanly from the silicone molds. This
Mold release should be washed off to help your primer make a better bond
to the resin. You will hear many suggestions to what to use, but here in
the basic...just getting started, I am going to say simply use warm water
and a degreasing dish soap. This soap with accomplish two things, first is
will wash off the mold release and second, the soap will help break the
surface tension and allow for a better bond. Scrub your parts with an old
tooth brush and rinse with warm water and let the parts air dry overnight.
Now, with your parts all clean, you are ready to begin sanding down the
mold
lines on the parts. Taking each part, using sandpaper/needle files /
dremmel,
etc... smooth down the mold line.
Now, with your parts all sanded and smooth, you are
ready to begin assembly.
For a tighter, stronger fit, you will want to pin the joining parts
together.
What you will want to do is measure/mark off where the pin will meet at
both
pieces at the joint and drill holes into the parts.
At times, this can be tough to get right. An easy way to set your pin is
to glue
the parts together and drill into the kit so that the pin will set into
both of the joining parts.
For the pin, you can use old wire coat hangers, brass rod (found at most
hobby and hardware stores, etc..), threaded rod, nails, screws, etc...
Measure the length of the pin and cut to size.
With the pin holes made, test fit the parts.
Now, there are all kinds of glues, but I prefer to use Devcon Plastic
Welder.
Basically, this is a 2 part epoxy that you mix equal portions. The glue
sets up in
4 minutes and has a test strength of 4500 lbs for a good solid joint. You
can
find Plastic Welder near the other 30 minute 5 minute Epoxy glues at your
local
hardware store or Walmart. Attach each part, one at a time, holding the
joining
parts for a few minutes until the epoxy sets up.
Once you have your kit is assembled, you will need to putty up the seams
of the joining parts. I recommend Aves Apoxie Sculpt and Aves Safety
Solvent.
http://www.avesstudio.com/
Aves makes a putty that is very easy to work with and is non-toxic. Mix
your
Aves Apoxie Sculpt with two equal parts and using a sculpting tool and
your
fingers, apply the putty over the seams. (you may need to resculpt in any
detail or texture if the joint has that). and Aves can be smoothed out
simply
taking an old paint brush and feathering it out with the Safety Solvent.
After you have puttied up the seams, allow the putty to set up overnight.
You can come back the next day and sand it down for further smoothing.
And there you go...you have built your kit. Wipe your kit down with a lint
free cloth and prime it using Dupli-Color light Grey "Filler"
primer (this can
be found at most Auto chain stores and your local Walmart in the auto
section). Prime your kit with a few light coats to get a nice even
coverage,
do not try and "Hose" your kit with one heavy spray of primer to
avoid
heavy build up and such.
There you go...now start painting
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