Converting Pantone numbers into model paint color?

[mjbare]

I’m not the best with colors. I could use some help with converting a couple Pantone shades into acrylic paints that I use for kits. I normally use Delta Ceramcoat because of their color range but also use Tamiya and a few other brands here and there. Can anyone help me? Obi-Wan?

[scuzzfink85]

Do you have a color wheel?

[mjbare]

Yes, but I’ve always had trouble understanding color theory. I need a Rosetta Stone.

[tay666]

Yes, but I’ve always had trouble understanding color theory. I need a Rosetta Stone.

I can agree with this.

[kevtk135]

I have a color wheel pic stuck to the wall next to my modeling area. Comes in handy.

But basically you have your 3 primary colors - Blue, Red and Yellow. You mix any two primaries and you have your adjacent color - blue + red makes purple. On and on.
The color directly opposite is the complimentary color.
If you look at blue and go across, the comp color is orange. Red comp is green etc...
You Tube is awesome for helping vids - https://youtu.be/DfKx7MjSEK0

There are various charts that will match colors to various Co. paints. But I don't think Ceramcoat will be one of the choices. Vallejo has a nice chart based on the Federal stand (not Pantone) but I hope it helps a little -
http://cdn.acrylicosvallejo.com/0049261 ... -rev05.pdf

[mjbare]

The You Tube was okay. I tried some searches in You Tube but either didn’t ask the right question or it wasn’t there. I did find a Pantone site and found some breakdowns of the two Pantone numbers I have. Now knowing what the Pantone colors are made up of, I can use some tips on how to make, say two ounces of each color. They’re both kinda shades of purple.

Pantone #518 U is 10 parts or 50 (%?) of Rubine Red, 6 pts or 30 of Green and 4 pts or 20 of Black.

Pantone #5255 U is 12 pts or 54.5 of Violet, 4pts or 18.2 of Pro(?) Blue and 6 pts or 27.3 of Black.

[scuzzfink85]

Whats pantone? I never heard those..
If Polly s was still around you wouldn't have any problems
finding paint colors as they had so many..

[RogueJ]

Pantone is a color management and matching system used by Graphic Artist, Designer and printers. PMS is Pantone Matching System. The breakdown he gives are percentages of various inks mixed to provide a certain PMS color within the system.

Hope this helps

Rogue

[tay666]

Thanks for that.
I had a rough idea what Pantone numbers were. But the added detail is nice to know.

[scuzzfink85]

I'm lousy at math but thanks..

[mjbare]

As I see it, to make 2oz of the two colored, I first have to find Rubine Red and Pho Blue in acrylic paint. Then I have to discover what the smaller units of an ounce are called and get a measuring cup that has those measurements marked on it. Then I add water to each color to make them fluid. Then, other than the proportion of Rubine Red which is 50% which would be one ounce, I’ll have to do the math to get the other proportions so I can end up with the 2oz of each color.

Whew! If anyone can help with the math and what is an ounce composed of, measurement wise, I’d appreciate it!

Thanks in advance.

[mentalmischief]

I guess I kind of overlooked this thread, as I've never given Pantone colors
much thought, seeing as I'm a printer and work with them all the time. lol

Pantone colors and Pantone books are mostly for mixing the proper ink colors.
We have them here and use them all the time. And when using printing inks,
you can pretty much match the color you're looking for with no problem, just
by mixing up the proper ratios, which usually involves using a scale.
(Scales have another use then just weighing pot.) LOL

So, Mike, if you want, I can give you a better breakdown of the those two PMS numbers
you have, as the books also break them down by 'parts'. In the case of Pantone #518,
instead of ounces, use the parts:
10 parts Rubine Red
6 parts Green
4 parts Black

You could use any measurement you want then. Just make sure that whatever measurement
you designate as a 'part' are all equal measurements. But I wouldn't dilute them with water before
measuring them. The Pantone book is based on the pure color of ink, or in this case, paint.
I think that would keep it much closer to what you're looking for.

(For PMS 5255:
12 parts Violet
4 parts Process Blue
6 parts Black)

Don't worry about the C or the U that follows those numbers either. They simply stand
for 'Coated' or 'Uncoated' paper.

Hope that helps a little.

Mark

[scuzzfink85]

I do most my mixing by eye.. for years trail and error only way to learn
the basics..

[ManthingVT]

Ultimately, Pantone color formulas don't translate well to paints since different paint manufacturers colors don't match each other are at best inconsistent across brands. Your best bet is to get a physical Pantone swatch and bring it with you if you if you want to match with with craft paint. I've done it for a corporate commission in the past that needed close matches, and I just found several that were close and mixed to match. The important thing is to actually have a "Pantone" color swatch, not a computer print or phone image. Those don't actually match. Well unless you are just using it as a guide for yourself, then, do what gets you the results you want.

[mjbare]

Thanks for the help everyone. I’ll give it a go and let you know how successful I was.

[mentalmischief]

Your best bet is to get a physical Pantone swatch and bring it with you if you if you want to match with with craft paint.
The important thing is to actually have a "Pantone" color swatch, not a computer print or phone image. Those don't actually match.

This is VERY true. Computer and phone images are not true representations of colors, especially since
the color controls on your monitor can be easily tweaked. Can't do that with a color swatch.

Only drawback is that a Pantone book is not cheap. But if you can get a color swatch somehow,
I'd agree with ManthingVT --- Bring it with you to the paint store. lol

Mark