Clear non-yellowing glue?

[KelE]

I have been using clear 2-part epoxy glue for eye work and I switched to clear Gorilla Glue because it was a little better for clarity.
The only issue was whether it would yellow.
I had a test head sitting around with it for 3 years and it didn't yellow.
However, I now can see it has yellowed. Even though it is not exposed to daylight.
Strangely even some dabs of glue I made recently have yellowed--makes me think the formula for the glue has changed.

Does anyone have a reliable crystal clear glue that they know does not yellow?
I will switch back to 2-part epoxy for the outer coat but I am looking around for alternatives.

Also
can someone recommend a really fine thin glossy white paint that I can use for attempting to whiten the eyes if I notice the yellowing?

[Rocketeer]

The clear acrylic mediums used by artists are non-yellowing and would be suitable for gloss-coating eyes.

[derekc62]

For gloss coating eyes I regularly used Tamiya clear gloss and occasionally Triple Thick.
Neither one yellows.

I've never used a glue to gloss eyes.

[KelE]

I use the glue to build up the eyeball so it has a glass-like depth. The interior is concave and it takes a certain precision to get the depth just right for the dome of the eye when the glue is applied in a thick globs.
And then I use a thin coating over the surface at last so it has a full reflective coating.
I hate doing it but I like the effect.

I am going to try Tamiya for the final outer coat and see if I can add a whiter gloss to a finished figure to brighten the eyeball if I perceive it is getting a little yellow.

[KelE]

Well I am having trouble with a current eye job because I used some JB Weld but it is not working out for the final coat.
I keep having to redo it.
I am going to try PC Clear next but I did some research and there is a non-yellowing glue (slow drying period 7 days) that supposedly does not yellow even when exposed to sunlight. They use it in glass ceramic repair. 3 parts to 1 part and needs an eye dropper to mix accurately. It gets thicker as it dries. You can also tint it apparently.

So for those who may have a need for it
it is called HXTAL NYL-1.

Not available in Canada. It has to be ordered from some specialty store and expensive to ship.

It may be overkill anyway because I use a very thin coating for the overall eye so yellowing would be pretty minimal.
I just don't trust Gorilla Glue at the moment for the whole eye but it sure would make it easier if I did.

[KelE]

PC Clear doesn't work well--4 minute work time is too short and even though it can get pretty close to a perfect coat it does weird warping that I don't like.
I am trying another experiment with Tamiya clear coat but it looks like if Gorilla Glue does yellow I can apply white over it to make it less so and preserve the glossy effect so that's a workaround for me.
I redid the eyes on a head almost 10 times before I realized I can't use the other epoxy. Lepage's no longer makes that particular clear epoxy glue I used originally.

[bucketfoot-al]

Good to know ...

[KelE]

I did some more experiments

If I had to
I could just add Tamiya gloss white paint over the gorilla glue eye

and then if it doesn''t have the same seamless reflective surface I can add Tamiya clear coat and it seems to preserve the effect I want with gloss reflection over the surface.

If I use Tamiya clear coat over the eyeball before the gorilla glue is added it doesn't give the same smooth surface. It needs the glue to create the seamless layer.

[KelE]

I am trying one last experiment--to see if I can use Tamiya clear coat for the final layer instead of Gorilla Glue.

[bucketfoot-al]

Make sure you let us know what results worked best.

[KelE]

One thing I learned is you can apply one coating of Tamiya clear coat gloss then you should leave it for 24 hours.
So I should find out tomorrow if I can switch to it for the final coating.

I applied two coats and that gives me the reflection surface I wanted--but I need to try a third coat to see what the difference is.
It looks like it does work so I will probably use it instead of the glue.

[KelE]

After all the big fuss
I just used the Tamiya clear coat.
Took 3 coats to get the look I wanted so I have to leave it for 24 hours to be sure it is dry. I am debating whether 4 coats is needed. I don't want to overdo it.
It is a little different in reflection but less stressful to apply compared to the glue so I will stick with this method.

[bucketfoot-al]

[KelE]

FYI it takes about 10 coats to get the reflective surface I like.