Recommend a Low Smell Primer

[scuzzfink85]

For Resin and Vinyl I used Rust Olem Primer automotive sandable.
What horrible smell, I shook the can alot before I sprayed
and shook the can every few seconds after that..
So bad I set the model outside for couple days.. before
still smelled bad.. after that coughed alot because this primer..
Because I live California we have special regulations.... sigh
back in 90's I had no problem with any primer I used..

[Jonas Calhoun]

Any aerosol primer is going to smell. Look at some of the airbrushable primers, like from Vallejo, Mission Models, Garage Kits, etc. You'll still want to use a spray booth and mask if possible, but they are less noxious.

[scuzzfink85]

This primer is bad batch I think never will use rust oleum again..
Still smells and caused spotting and flicks of primer all over the model
had to strip the model..

[derekc62]

I use Dupli-color.
Never had a problem however I do all my priming outside so I've never noticed an issue with fumes.

[btbrush]

This primer is bad batch I think never will use rust oleum again..
Still smells and caused spotting and flicks of primer all over the model
had to strip the model..

Sounds more like a clogged/dirty nozzle. Also the first thing I do is shave off the two dimples on either side of the spray opening to get rid of the fan shaped spray.

[scuzzfink85]

Bought some dupli color primer goes on so smooth..
No fumes no problems..
I will use rust oleam on a project when weather is hot..
The spray is fine just a bad can..
I noticed the have acrylic lacquer primer can it be used on vinyl models?

[btbrush]

Yes. I use lacquer primer on everything. Safer. Note your Duplicolor is enamel. Enamel not good with vinyl.

[PACinT]

Tamiya or Gunze are pretty low in smell and come also bottle for Brush or AB use

[kevtk135]

FWIW, My new fav is the Stynylrez primers - black, white, gray.
I use it on resin all the time. Never had a problem ~ no smell.

[Zeiram]

It occurs to me that there may be some cost benefit to using an airbrushable primer as opposed to something out of a rattle can. You're not paying for the propellant and packaging. I've always used rattle cans, but just decided to order a bottle of Vallejo to give it a try. I'm hoping for finer atomization, but it might also be cheaper in the long run. Has anyone done the math over time?

[resin addict]

Stay away from Rustoleum brand spray can products if you can...they're infamous for clogging the nozzles.
I've got a friend who owns a body shop/repair facility, sometimes it's easier to use a spray can for quick touch ups where your not concerned about a stellar finish, truck bumpers, rims, etc.
He says he'll never use Rustoleum because the cans clog so quickly.
If I'm using spray can primer, I always use Duplicate-color.

[kevtk135]

It occurs to me that there may be some cost benefit to using an airbrushable primer as opposed to something out of a rattle can. You're not paying for the propellant and packaging. I've always used rattle cans, but just decided to order a bottle of Vallejo to give it a try. I'm hoping for finer atomization, but it might also be cheaper in the long run. Has anyone done the math over time?

I can't comment on cost. But the one thing about Vallejo primers - and I think they're very good - is to let it dry thoroughly. After a few minutes, it may feel dry to the touch but if you don't give it an over night dry, it will rub off easily.

[Jonas Calhoun]

It occurs to me that there may be some cost benefit to using an airbrushable primer as opposed to something out of a rattle can. You're not paying for the propellant and packaging. I've always used rattle cans, but just decided to order a bottle of Vallejo to give it a try. I'm hoping for finer atomization, but it might also be cheaper in the long run. Has anyone done the math over time?

I've always thought the airbrushable primers are cheaper. It seems you get more for your money too--less overspray, easier to control, etc. I do buy both bottle and spray versions of the Gunze Mr. Surfacers though--the spray cans are more expensive, but I don't have to worry about spiderwebs or anything like that. Bottle versions I put on seams with a micro brush.

Dan

[Otto69]

I'm in CA too and I've never liked Rustoleum. Find Duplicolor.

And please, please, wear a quality respirator rated for organic vapors when priming, and have an air exhaust system.

[scuzzfink85]

I have one.. but learned my lesson with rust oleum..
years ago I used fioquil primer never any problems..
Used Plastic coat that went bye bye...
Whats the scoop? with games workshop primer rubs off too?

[RossAWaddell]

I can vouch for Stynylrez primer, too. Water-based, easy clean-up and most importantly: sandable. I've not had any luck with any other airbrush primer when it comes to wet sanding; all the others tend to flake off. Not Stynylrez, though. It's not perfect (Tamiya or Mr Color are the gold standard), but it's the best airbrushable non-lacquer based primer there is.

[Crazy Joe]

I can vouch for Stynylrez primer, too. Water-based, easy clean-up and most importantly: sandable. I've not had any luck with any other airbrush primer when it comes to wet sanding; all the others tend to flake off. Not Stynylrez, though. It's not perfect (Tamiya or Mr Color are the gold standard), but it's the best airbrushable non-lacquer based primer there is.

Agree 100% with Ross...

[Pepperpain]

I'd recommend Badgers Stynylrez too (http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Stynylrez.asp) , but keep in mind you will need to either use a large 0.5mm nozzle airbrush, or you'll need to thin the dickens out of it (distilled water works fine).

I bit the bullet for a Badger Patriot just to spay primer.

- Brian

[Crazy Joe]

Brian, I actually got it to spray pretty well out of a .2mm HP-B...

now, I really wouldn't make a habit of that, though...

This stuff really is the cat's a$$ as primers go. Really looking forward to exploring what I can do with the other colours...