THE CLUBHOUSE

hello,been ouuta scene for awhile,looking for info upon building resin kits. i have a kit where i need the arms and legs connected. what to use? wire with CA2 glue?

Mitchman wrote: ↑September 17th, 2025, 2:06 am hello,been ouuta scene for awhile,looking for info upon building resin kits. i have a kit where i need the arms and legs connected. what to use? wire with CA2 glue?

The answer to each question is 'yes'.

I would recommend pinning the arms, especially if the parts are are not 'keyed' (male and female connections in the arm/shoulder) for the parts to slot in to.

I've used CA glue for years but more and more I've been switching to epoxy for added strength.

For more responses it might be best to post building-related questions on the "Workbench" section. More people are likely to see your questions there.

While I do not approach Derek's expertise on these issues, I will share my experience.

I find CA glue to be more than adequate for most human figures especially as Derek says, when there is a lock and key connection of the limbs to the body. For those that don't, I will pin if I feel the pose puts strain on a joint. I have never had a joint fail.

I use thick CA sparingly for bonding and then thin CA (very carefully) as a filler with bicarb to fill micro gaps. I like to leave joints over night to fully cure. I might even double apply and leave it for a further day if I think it beneficial. This is why it can be good to have more than one project on the go.

It also depends on how you work. If you like to work quickly and use a CA accelerator like Zip Kicker, I would pin more often as the bond is not as strong. I use ZK very rarely on small connections and masked up or use it outside. I hate the smell and it doesn't smell friendly to me.

Never skimp on safety. Take your time, eye protection, ventilation, keep off skin - have acetone/debonder handy.

Hope this is useful.

I'm with Derek. I prefer epoxy for a stronger joint.
I am not precious with my models, meaning they see some handling. Both while I am building/painting, but also moving around on my shelves, taking to conventions, etc.
CA is fine for small kits, or small parts that won't be handled much. Even then, I usually pin with a piece of paper clip.

I have to caution against using CA with baking soda (bicarb) as a gap filler. Many years ago I customized a 1940 Ford model, using CA and baking soda for all the bodywork. Now, those areas have dark oily-looking stains, and the filler has deteriorated. Best IMHO to use a two-part epoxy putty (Milliput White, Aves) for filling.

Rocketeer wrote: ↑September 18th, 2025, 12:50 am I have to caution against using CA with baking soda (bicarb) as a gap filler. Many years ago I customized a 1940 Ford model, using CA and baking soda for all the bodywork. Now, those areas have dark oily-looking stains, and the filler has deteriorated. Best IMHO to use a two-part epoxy putty (Milliput White, Aves) for filling.

Always interesting to hear other's views and experience. I've had not problem with old kits using baking soda and early on talc as a filler with CA for microcracks. For anything substantial I use Milliput Superfine.

I'm not precious with my kits but I am careful when moving them around mainly because as resin they'd not weather a fall well. The only time I did a drop buildup (on carpet), I was moving house, and it broke not along a CA'd joint but elsewhere. Anyhow I've had no issues with CA, so I'll stick with it, so to speak.

thanks guys! what epoxy? and best online/stores for figure building supplies.

I just use 5 minute epoxy sold by Home Depot or Amazon. You may want to search the forums as there have been some good posts about epoxy here.

There is a comprehensive listing of suppliers in the General Information/Modelmaker's Resources section of this site. Lots of good info there on other subjects, too. Tip of the hat to Squidy and Trevor for all their work on that.

What they said …Lock tite 2 part epoxy works great